What kind of box?  Covered or uncovered?  Where is it placed?  How many?  What type of litter?  Clumping?  Scented or unscented?

 

Litter box habits can make or break a cat’s life in a home.  The variation of feline preferences has allowed the litter and litter box market to explode over the years.  But what sounds like a winner to you may not sound the same to your cat.

 

To understand a cat’s litter box habits, you first need a peek into the life of cats in the wild.  Excrement releases odors that can attract predators.  Therefor most cats will try to cover up or bury their excrement.  Excrement can also be a territory marker.  It says, “This is MY territory-KEEP OUT.”  A challenger may attempt to cross that line & leave his or her scent in response.  Most animals, cats included, prefer to potty in a quiet, private area.  No one likes being jumped from behind while trying to potty!  And have you ever seen an animal return to the same spot time after time to potty?  If so, it is rare!

 

Before we go further, let’s put the number one rule in terms of kitty litter boxes out there.  You should have 1 more litter box than you do cats.  So, even if you have 1 cat, you should have a minimum of 2 boxes.  Ten cats?  Eleven boxes.  And 4 boxes all side by side or even a couple inches apart does not count as 4 boxes to your cats-this counts as one giant kitty box.  So now what?

 

Don’t think about how well your cats get along with each other, or how people or dog friendly they are.  Don’t think how your cat loves to race up and down steps or be where the action is.  Think what YOU would want when YOU have to potty.  Do you enjoy working through a crowd of people to get to the bathroom?  Do you enjoy jogging up and down steps constantly for the bathroom? (Especially if you’re injured or have arthritis)  Do you enjoy the smell of a row of outhouses?  This is exactly what a row of litter boxes is to your cat!

 

Choose the Location:

When you’re deciding where to put the litter boxes, consider quiet, out of the way places that are easy for your cat to access.  Basements are always owners’ number one choice of locations; however that is often the worst place.  Cats like quick, easy access to quiet, low-traffic areas.  The ideal placement is one on each level of your home.  If you have a one level home, then there should be a box on each end of your home.  Avoid laundry & furnace rooms, as machines can suddenly kick on and startle your cat, which can cause a litter box aversion.  If a cat decides he doesn’t want to pass the child, pass the dog, or travel the steps to get to the litter box, he may decide to go somewhere else.  Make sure he has an appropriate option.

 

Choose the Box:

Many owners are choosing the self-cleaning litter boxes.  Some like the covered boxes to help reduce the odor.  Again, consider your cat.  Self-cleaning boxes may not keep the box as clean as your cat prefers it, or may leave behind soiled litter even after it “cleans” after your cat.  They could also kick on while your cat is in the box and startle her, causing a litter box aversion.

 

Covered litter boxes are good for the human nose, but what about your kitty’s more sensitive nose?  It’s like entering an outhouse in the summer!  Some cats like covered boxes, but some do not.  Also, a cat may feel trapped in a covered box by another cat, animal, or circumstance in the home and later avoid that box.

High-sided litter boxes help with the flying cat litter as your cat paws around in it.  But small kittens and injured or arthritic cats may have trouble getting in and out.  Very small boxes don’t allow much room before they become full and your cat may not want to be in them.

 

Choose the Litter:

Aahhh…so many choices here too!  Remember that cat noses are sensitive and they don’t like strong smells, so avoid scented litter.  Litter can deodorize without being heavily scented.  Clumping litter helps with scooping boxes.  Clay, unclumping litter is cheap but would need completely dumped and refilled daily.  The pellets may also be a little bigger and tougher on Kitty’s paws.  Most cats prefer unscented, soft, fine grain litter.  Once you find a litter your cat likes, stick with it!  Changing litter often can upset Kitty.  If you must change litter, mix the old with the new for a week or so to make sure your Kitty accepts the change.

 

Hint: Some people bring outdoor cats inside and have trouble with them not using the litter box.  Outdoor kitties typically use gardens or areas with soft soil or dirt to potty.  Add some dirt to the litter box and see if that helps.  Avoid the fertilized garden soil-use plain dirt or plain soil.

 

To Line or Not to Line:

Litter Box liners allow you to simply fold up the bag with litter and goods in it and toss it into the trash.  However, some cats do not like the sound and feel of the liners.  Their nails may also get caught when they scratch around in the litter.

 

How do you choose?  You don’t-your cat does.  Start with the traditional open box and a soft, fine grain clumping litter.  Most cats like at least 1-2 inches to scratch around in.  Remember, one more box than cats in the home, on different levels or ends of your home.  If you want to try a covered box or a self- cleaning box, feel free to, but add it in addition to at least one traditional box.  If your cat uses it, great!  If not, then you know your cat doesn’t like it.  If you notice a box not getting used, consider the type and location of the box.

 

Housecleaning:

Litter boxes should be scooped at least once daily.  The more cats you have, the more times a day you may need to scoop.  When you scoop, consider the depth of the litter and add more if it is getting low.  Completely empty boxes weekly and wash with warm water and unscented soap, then refill with fresh litter.  You may put special litter mats or newspaper under or around the boxes to help with litter clean up if you have an overzealous litter slinger.

 

Inappropriate Elimination:

Your kitty has pottied outside the litter box.  So what now?

There are several reasons for your cat to eliminate in places other than the litter box.  Here are a few common reasons:

            -  Kitty could have been “in” the box but too close to the edge

            -  The box may not be clean enough for Kitty

            -  Something may have prevented Kitty from getting to the box (i.e. road block, arthritis)

            -  Litter Box Aversion-this means that something happened while Kitty was in the box and Kitty has associated it with the box.  I.e.: Something startles Kitty, pain when eliminating (UTI, Bladder Stones, arthritis)

            -  Kitty is upset about something (i.e. routine change in home, new arrival, departure)

            -  Kitty is ill (i.e. UTI, stones, arthritis, just doesn’t feel good)

            -  Kitty is marking territory (marking is common when there are cats hanging around outside.  You may not see them, but your cat may know they are there)

            -  Kitty had one accident and can still smell it in that area, and will go back to use it again

 

When your cat eliminates outside the box, first look for signs of illness.  Do you see blood?  Is the amount or color different than normal for your cat?  Next consider the condition of your litter boxes.  Consider also the location your cat chose compared to the location of the boxes.  Thoroughly clean the area with a cleaner formulated for cat urine stains.  This will help break down the enzymes in the stain that release the odor that cats can smell even when we cannot.  If your cat chose a room you can close off, close off that room.  If your cat chose an object you can move (rug, laundry basket, coat on the floor), move the item in question.

 

If your cat eliminates outside the box more than a couple times, or you notice signs of illness in your cat, call your veterinarian.  Your vet will ask you questions pertaining to the number of boxes in your home, placement of boxes, cleaning of boxes, any changes in your home, etc.  Your veterinarian will also examine your cat to rule in or rule out medical problems.  If a medical issue is found, treatment can begin.  If no medical issue is found, the problem is likely behavioral and your veterinarian can hopefully help guide you to eliminating the problem.

 

Inappropriate elimination is probably the number one reason for indoor cats being made outdoor cats, or being taken to shelters or euthanized.  By following the “kitty rules” so to speak, listening to your cat, and asking your vet for help when necessary, you and your cat can live inside in harmony.  Please do not hesitate to call your vet with concerns or frustrations.