Cats are likely the most popular pets, and many people who are cat owners have more than one feline resident. Veterinarians stress that cats lead healthier, longer lives when they are kept indoors. However, many times, natural cat behaviors push cat owners to let their cats outside permanently or to drop them off at shelters. By more thoroughly understanding your cat’s instinctive behaviors, you can make compromises and live happily with your feline companion.
Even though cats have been domesticated for quite a while, like all animals, they never lose their instinctive or natural behaviors. To allow our cats to lead happy, healthy lives, (physically, mentally and emotionally) we need to understand the natural behavior of cats and do what we can to appropriately accommodate that behavior. These instincts can be classified into 5 basic systems: physical resource, nutritional, elimination (see blog titled Litter Box Delimas), social, and behavioral. Within each of these areas are opportunities for enrichment for your cat, such as tactile, cognitive stimulation, social, satisfying the natural prey drive, and more.
Physical Resource (aka the Cat’s Space)
Cats like their space. They enjoy comfy beds, the smallest basket or box they can find, and high perches. Be sure your cat has access to a quiet area away from the chaos of the rest of the home. If you have dogs or children, provide your cat with at least one area that is off limits to the dogs and kids. Allow plenty of options for resting or bedding down, such as cat beds, baskets, or even your bed. Your cat won’t hesitate to nap on your clean laundry or in an abandoned shoe box! Also provide your cat with perch options, like a chair in front of a window, or a cat tree. These are good vantage points for the cats to feel safe and observe the area.
Although cats can coexist in multi-cat households, like humans they may not always get along and may want their own space. Just because they are litter mates, the same gender, or play together now and then, doesn’t mean they want to always be together. Cats require a social distance of 1-3 meters. When providing beds or perching options, keep this in mind. Provide multiple resting places for your cat(s) to choose.
Enrichment: Consider a variety of “beds” or resting areas. Try fleece, down blankets, or even an old carpet swatch in a box or basket. Be sure beds are provided in quiet, out of the way areas. Some cats also enjoy crinkle sacks or tunnels for resting and for play.
Nutritional (Food & Water)
In the wild, cats must hunt for their food and water. Domestic cats have it easy in this area-too easy. We as owners simply put out a bowl of food and a bowl of water. However, this may not be enough.
Cats are known to be finicky eaters. Unless on a special diet for medical reasons, cats should be on a high quality commercial cat food. Some cats will eat whatever is set in front of them right away, and others may graze during the day or night. Either is acceptable as long as the cat maintains a healthy weight/body condition and is otherwise healthy (frequent visits with your veterinarian will help determine if your cat has special needs for mealtimes or feeding restrictions). Single and multicat homes should have several bowls for food and water.
Enrichment: Place food & water bowls in various quiet areas of the home, out of site from each other. This allows cats to eat separate from other cats if desired, and also to “search” for their meal as they would in the wild, allowing them cognitive stimulation and to satisfy the prey drive. Even cats on a diet (a set amount of food per day) can partake in this food hunt. Simply measure out their meal, and place a small amount in two or three bowls, then place them around the home. This also encourages the cat to move and exercise, with the food as the reward. Another option is a puzzle toy, which is designed to release food during play. This encourages the hunting behavior and is a form of exercise, again with food as the reward.
Social System (Contact)
A cat’s social system includes all residents living in the home-other cats, people, dogs, etc. Some may be seen by the cats as prey (pocket pets, fish, birds), others as threats (dogs, people), and some as competition (other cats). It’s important not to force physical contact on your cat, either between you and the cat, kids and the cat, or other animals to the cat. Let your cat decide when he is ready for contact.
Cats don’t develop dominance over other cats like other species. They may form social groups with other cats in the home, or if they choose to remain solitary, they will avoid conflict by avoiding other cats or decreasing their activity. This is where food & water bowls, resting/scratching places, and litter boxes in multiple locations in the home is vital to the harmony of your cats.
Conflict between cats may develop when a cat feels a threat to their overall status in the home, from others in the home, or from cats hanging around outside. Cats view other cats hanging around outside their home as an invasion to their territory and a threat. You may see signs of conflict in your cats like hissing, growling, turning sideways and poofing themselves up so their hair stands on end and hunching their backs (makes them appear bigger). This may progress to swatting or biting. Or you may notice a silent conflict in which the threatened cat will remain separate from others. They may prefer to hide in a quiet area, or come out only when the assertive cat or threat is not around.
Typically, cats will come to a “we agree to disagree” resolution. While they may never be best friends, they will learn to tolerate each other without showing much conflict. Conflict to the point of injury or illness should be addressed by your veterinarian, both the victim and the aggressor.
Enrichment: When your cat comes to you for attention, attempt to brush or comb your cat. Not only is this healthy for the skin & hair coat, but petting and grooming is good social interaction between you and your cat. Flea combs make excellent grooming tools for cats as they get a lot of the loose undercoat. If your cat doesn’t care for your attempt at grooming, simply spend time petting your cat where she enjoys it most.
Behavioral System (Body Care & Activity)
Although last, this is maybe the most important for domestic cats. This includes natural behaviors such as chewing, scratching and playing. Cat owners should allow acceptable outlets for this behavior.
Declawing is very common with indoor cats because owners don’t want the cats to scratch the furniture or kids. In some situations, it is advisable to declaw a cat (front feet only-back feet should NEVER be declawed as the cat needs those claws for protection and escape). However, many times a cat can keep the front claws and leave the furniture and woodwork unscathed.
Scratching is a natural behavior. You may notice that even declawed cats still “scratch” even without claws. Scratching helps the health of the claws, as well as “marks” their territory in a way that other cats can see or smell. When cats are introduced to having nails trimmed at a young age, they are more acceptable to it as adults. Talk to your veterinarian about teaching your cat to tolerate nail trims. Most veterinarians will also be happy to trim your cats’ claws for you for a small fee.
Provide several items that are appropriate for your cat to scratch. Some cats prefer a certain type of fabric or carpeting. Some like corrugated cardboard. Some cats prefer vertical surfaces, others horizontal or surfaces on an incline. As with litter boxes, let your cat tell you what he or she prefers.
If your cat is already scratching at home, consider the surface(s) or angle that is currently being used, and search for an appropriate scratching item. Pet stores offer a variety of scratching posts and other items. When you bring the object home, give your cat time to investigate. This goes with any new item, be it appliances or cat toys. Place the object in an area where your cat spends a lot of time. Entice him or her to use the object by sprinkling cat nip on it or placing a cat treat on it. Consider cat tape (available in pet stores) over items you do not want your cat to scratch (an area on furniture or door frames) while your cat learns to use the scratching post. If you catch your cat in the act of scratching an undesired item, clap your hands or lightly spray the cat with a water bottle. Do not let your cat see you do this, or he will associate the act with you and become afraid of you. Time and patience can teach your cat what is and is not acceptable to scratch.
Many cats will chew plants, and some of those plants may be toxic! Keep plants out of reach of cats. Floor plants can be marked with bitter tasting sprays to make them less appealing. Again, you may clap your hands or spray your cat with a water bottle to discourage plant chewing.
Provide your cat with a variety of toys to play with. Just as important is that you play with your cat. Roll a ball down the hall. Toss the mouse for her to chase and catch. A ball in a box with holes to see and paw at the ball may be fun for your cat. Laser pointers (when used appropriately) are good cat toys, except that they don’t allow the cat to “catch” a reward. Consider allowing your cat to “pounce” the laser then give a treat or praise. Without a reward, the cat may lose interest. Rotate toys to keep your cat’s interest. Sometimes a foil ball is of more interest to your cat than the most expensive cat toy!
Enrichment: As mentioned above, interactive play with your cat is good social enrichment, as well as attempting to satisfy their natural prey drive. Remote controlled mice, toys that dangle from a wand, and catnip toys all provide an outlet for energy and promote exercise. If you are gone from home a lot, consider leaving a video on designed for cats, or even bird feeders set up near your cat’s favorite window. Many cats enjoy watching birds outside or fish in an aquarium (make certain cats cannot escape out the windows or get into the aquarium).